Additional support is always required when the bathtub is being installed against the wall regardless of a type of the material is made from. This information derived from the manufacture’s installation literature. In general, 2×4 or1 x4 nailed horizontally on the exact height and leveled at a back wall is the required basic; however, other manufacturers specify also vertical 2×4 any tub’s corner.
You must decide at a point about either to install the finished floor before a tub installation of the tub or afterwards. You can prefer to install a floor first since it looks good and also adds another shielding waterproofing layer on top of the subfloor and the framing. However, does not mean that too much care must be taken so as to protect during the finishing of the walls or even during the installation.
Cast-iron tubs usually weigh about 300Ibs. Notably, it will require not just rosin paper so as the flooring protected perfectly. A protecting layer of ¼ -in plywood or masonite at the top of rosin paper may look like the unnecessary expenditure, but you will have peace of mind and is much more economical compared to a big gouge or a scratch at the floor.
Carefully vacuum a floor so as to collect debris scraps that might cause a scratch before you lay a rosin paper on the floor. Partly cover the rosin paper seams, after you have established a protective sheathing, tape a joint using a duct tape to prevent it from falling via the cracks.
Easing a bathtub to place needs both finesse and brute strength. You will require at least a single extra assist for the plastic tub and two or even three for the cast-iron tub.
Several 2×4 runners can provide easiness for a sliding tub to position and also assist in protecting the floor. If you have cut one of a protection masonite section so as to fit a footprint of the tub, then you will have to eliminate that section before you install the tub and recoil a rosin paper.